Chop strand matt
The stack for Splash
Core matt, chop strand and foam sittting on the hull separated by plastic sheet
Friday, July 8, 2011
Splash
The "Splash" which holds the yacht to the boat trailer fits the contours of the Hull exactly, making the boat a stable and secure load. It was made with chopped strand fibre-glass, marine plywood and foam. Polyester resin was used here since it's cheaper, however it does give off plenty of fumes and an organic vapour respirator is essential.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
GLASSING THE HULL
Good glassing technique ensures a F.G. job is done well as I'll explain...
Chris L. explained clearly the importance of working an 80% stroke with the roller from the centre of the boat outwards towards the edges. The other 20% of area will be the perimeter or edges to be glassed requiring a little more care in wetting with resin. In the picture below we can see how at first and 80% stroke was used then haphazardly more of a 120% stroke. Some people need to be reminded what working 80% means so we don't pick up bad habits.
Chris pointing out a holiday where resin missed.
We had turns rolling on the resin to get a feel for it, leaving 300mm at the bow where it required filling and fairing. The tip of the bow needed to be cat off and rounded then this area could also be glassed.
Here is an example of the hull being glassed with EDB400 fibre-glass cloth, working from the centre outwards. The centre-case was sealed with cardboard and vactape so resin didn't creep in. The F.G. was cut out once cured. This F.G.process did not require post curing. The F.G. was cut 40mm proud of the deckline and wet on underneath by brush lying on our back. This is also where the bag was sealed to, it was a job well done I'm glad to say.
Please see this video Chris Owen took, it shows well the process involved. http://youtu.be/k6uffxJUQx4
I noticed when Chris was fastening these two pieces of wood to the foam that a better way of applying pressure would be to screw into a piece fo wood behind the foam to get good pressure on the chain plate.
Chris L. explained clearly the importance of working an 80% stroke with the roller from the centre of the boat outwards towards the edges. The other 20% of area will be the perimeter or edges to be glassed requiring a little more care in wetting with resin. In the picture below we can see how at first and 80% stroke was used then haphazardly more of a 120% stroke. Some people need to be reminded what working 80% means so we don't pick up bad habits.
We had turns rolling on the resin to get a feel for it, leaving 300mm at the bow where it required filling and fairing. The tip of the bow needed to be cat off and rounded then this area could also be glassed.
Please see this video Chris Owen took, it shows well the process involved. http://youtu.be/k6uffxJUQx4
CHAIN PLATE
The chain plate was cut from the same piece as that for the rudder mount. The rebate cut with router and excess foam trimmed away by chisel from the F.G. behind.
JOINING THE HULL TO DECK
We came across an issue when trying to attach the deck to the hull, as we couldn't attach the glass flange to the bulkhead in a suitable manner. So Chris and Rob came up with another solution.. to make a groove in the bulkheads top edge so that enough epoxy would fill it and bond to the inside deck. Also he was able to reach inside and cove one side of the B/H. Chris made a neat little tool for the job by bending a nail and flattening the end, making a little rotary chisel to gouge out the foam.
Here's Chris Lovegrove cutting off the excess foam on the topside with the jigsaw on a beveled angle exact to the strake of the hull. To get it to fit nicely we removed a little more leaving a small 2mm gap which we filled with epoxy and later sanded. Chris L. made it clear that it was quite unprofessional to work the topsides in this manner, however it was our first time so it was all a learning curve, excuse the pun.
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
FAIRING THE HULL
Once we had glued the deck to the hull it was time to overturn the yacht and work on the hull first planing off the excess glue. Some of the strips were slightly proud of the rest so a little more planing was required to fair the hull.
After planing we all grabbed a longboard and sanded the entire hull feeling for incontinuity in fairness as we went. The technique for sanding is important. The longboard is held so that the sanding face makes good contact with the hull surface and sanding up and down against the contour. It is important to sand like this so we don't create eddies and undulations.
After planing we all grabbed a longboard and sanded the entire hull feeling for incontinuity in fairness as we went. The technique for sanding is important. The longboard is held so that the sanding face makes good contact with the hull surface and sanding up and down against the contour. It is important to sand like this so we don't create eddies and undulations.
That's me on top chiseling a 4mm deep rebate around the centre-case and filling it to add strength around the edge and ensure no gaps or hollows exist. Then we saturated the hull in WEST Z105 epoxy before fibre-glassing with EDB400 matt.
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
VACUUM BAGGING " STACKING" and EPOXY
During construction of the entire yacht four different epoxy blends were used:
1) WEST ( wood epoxy saturation technique) epoxy Z105 two parts mix, Part A the resin; Part B the catalyst at a ratio of 4:1. The pump we used squirts the correct ratio for us otherwise we use a scale to get the ratio correct.
2)ADR two part epoxy resin ( ADR and ADH). Requires post curing to achieve best hardness.The main hardener, ADH341, offers pot-lives up to 24 hours, working times of up to 72 hours and requires curing temperatures in excess of 50º C under vacuum.
3)Various types of "thixatrope" were also used in different areas of the boat as I'll explain. To cove in joins on the inside we used an WEST epoxy blend with the thixatrope colloidal silica 411, a lightwight microsphere blend which makes a think white paste. It is easily workable when 200ml of 411 are mixed with 2 pumps of epoxy, making a viscosity like soft ice-cream.
4) The other thixatrope we used was gap filler microfibre blend 403 we used to fill holes and cove in joins.
The mixture we used to bond the deck to the hull was a "Rubberised" epoxy. Two parts of HPR25a and HPR25b mixed together at a 4:1 ration making a strong structural adhesive.
For the deck and exterior of the yacht ADR epoxy was used. This range of resins and hardeners developed with unique chemistry makes them suitable for building simple room temperature curing e glass structures along with high temperature post cured carbon laminates.
With superior mechanical properties and wet-out characteristics, ADR resins and hardeners have become the preferred systems for large, high flow laminations requiring reliable cure and long working times. Designed largely for laminating only, ADR resins and hardeners produce stronger, stiffer and tougher laminates.
1 )First the area to glass is saturated with resin with a paint roller
2) Let saturated area cure, then de-nib with 40 grit and etch the surface so next layers bond well.
3) The fibre-glass matt with centre marked on it laid from the middle out to prevent wrinkles in the cloth with spreaders and roller.
4) Then the cloth is wetted through from the middle outwards forcing the air and bubbles out to the edges.
5) Peel-ply laid on top of F.G. cloth in the same manner working wrinkles and air pockets outwards.
6) Perforated plastic covers the stack to aid in the separation of the mesh and the holes let excess resin through.
7) Shade cloth mesh covers the stack to soak up excess resin and allow air to flow out to vacuum pump.
8) Finally the plastic sheet covers the stack and sealed with bitumen vacuum tape around the perimeter of glassed area.
1) WEST ( wood epoxy saturation technique) epoxy Z105 two parts mix, Part A the resin; Part B the catalyst at a ratio of 4:1. The pump we used squirts the correct ratio for us otherwise we use a scale to get the ratio correct.
2)ADR two part epoxy resin ( ADR and ADH). Requires post curing to achieve best hardness.The main hardener, ADH341, offers pot-lives up to 24 hours, working times of up to 72 hours and requires curing temperatures in excess of 50º C under vacuum.
3)Various types of "thixatrope" were also used in different areas of the boat as I'll explain. To cove in joins on the inside we used an WEST epoxy blend with the thixatrope colloidal silica 411, a lightwight microsphere blend which makes a think white paste. It is easily workable when 200ml of 411 are mixed with 2 pumps of epoxy, making a viscosity like soft ice-cream.
4) The other thixatrope we used was gap filler microfibre blend 403 we used to fill holes and cove in joins.
The mixture we used to bond the deck to the hull was a "Rubberised" epoxy. Two parts of HPR25a and HPR25b mixed together at a 4:1 ration making a strong structural adhesive.
For the deck and exterior of the yacht ADR epoxy was used. This range of resins and hardeners developed with unique chemistry makes them suitable for building simple room temperature curing e glass structures along with high temperature post cured carbon laminates.
With superior mechanical properties and wet-out characteristics, ADR resins and hardeners have become the preferred systems for large, high flow laminations requiring reliable cure and long working times. Designed largely for laminating only, ADR resins and hardeners produce stronger, stiffer and tougher laminates.
Sealing bag to transom. Chris cut a slice off the transom to try make a seal since resin was poured all over the place and dripped down the transom and under the masking tape which was used to attempt to protect the perimeter where the vac tape needed to go.
Sealing "stack" to decks underside
Pressure Gauge showing a 100% seal at -100kPa (1 atmosphere of pressure)
Air works the same way. The atmoshere is about 50 miles "deep," and at sea level it exerts 14.7 psi. That is, a 1-inch-square column of air 50 miles high weighs 14.7 pounds. Our bodies think 14.7 psi of air pressure is completely normal.
Air works the same way. The atmoshere is about 50 miles "deep," and at sea level it exerts 14.7 psi. That is, a 1-inch-square column of air 50 miles high weighs 14.7 pounds. Our bodies think 14.7 psi of air pressure is completely normal.
Vacuum valve with four inlets, ones not used are clamped shut.
Foredeck underside being vacuum bagged.
See this video of a bagging complication. Holes are frequently a problem when trying to seal the bag.
http://youtu.be/LHtY3QTVMFg
See this video of a bagging complication. Holes are frequently a problem when trying to seal the bag.
http://youtu.be/LHtY3QTVMFg
EDB (double bias) 240g/m2 fibre-glass matt
EDB (double bias) 400g/m2 fibre-glass woven matt
Chopped strand fibre-glass matt
Perforated plastic
Shade cloth mesh
Plastic sheet 4m wide
Roll of rubberized bitumen vacuum tape
LAMINTAING PREPARATION:
The stack is layered as such:
LAMINTAING PREPARATION:
-Ensure the surface is dirt free and any holes filled.
-Sand a 50mm rebate where the F.G. cloth will overlap.
-Use masking tape around edges where the vac tape will go. It is essential this area is kept free of contaminates, e.g. resin, dust, material fibres. Masking tape also creates a visible boundary to work to.
-Pour 4-5 pumps of WEST Z105 Epoxy into clean container and stir for 1-2 minutes taking note of the time as the pot-life (working time) of the resin is limited to 1 hour. As the catalytic process is an exothermic chemical reaction we must be carefull not to make too much resin at one time, as this speeds the gell-time considerably.
-Now begin making the stack with the steps as followed...
1 )First the area to glass is saturated with resin with a paint roller
2) Let saturated area cure, then de-nib with 40 grit and etch the surface so next layers bond well.
3) The fibre-glass matt with centre marked on it laid from the middle out to prevent wrinkles in the cloth with spreaders and roller.
4) Then the cloth is wetted through from the middle outwards forcing the air and bubbles out to the edges.
5) Peel-ply laid on top of F.G. cloth in the same manner working wrinkles and air pockets outwards.
6) Perforated plastic covers the stack to aid in the separation of the mesh and the holes let excess resin through.
7) Shade cloth mesh covers the stack to soak up excess resin and allow air to flow out to vacuum pump.
8) Finally the plastic sheet covers the stack and sealed with bitumen vacuum tape around the perimeter of glassed area.
Flying Trimaran Article Review
l’Hydroptère
Article:
Last season the carbon trimaran broke two world speed records. l’Hydroptère broke a first record over 500 meters at an average speed of 44.81 knots. The second world sailing record was one over one nautical mile, this run made her the fastest craft in the one mile.
After this triumph, the team decided to temporarily set aside open sea trials in order to concentrate on breaking the mythical speed barrier of 50 knots. Thus, 2008 will be devoted to pure speed. l’Hydroptère is now specialized.
In order to accomplish this, studies and trials have been carried out by their team of engineers, in collaboration with the Ecole Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne. The rigging, the platform and the external parts have been finely modified to bring the boat’s speed potential over 50 knots.
The next few days will be devoted to a series of tests on the new rigging and sails, and on the new textile streamlining, which has recently been installed. L’Hydroptère will then be convoyed to Lorient, where she will be transported by cargo ship to the Mediterranean.
After a final phase of assembly in Marseille, l’Hydroptère will be able to tackle her goal for 2008 – to become the fastest sailing craft on the planet.
Review:
This is a truly beautiful and remarkable in its technology both in the design and in materials. The average speed alone of 44.81knots or 83 km's per hour is phenomenally fast gliding metres above the choppy surface of the water reducing the lag to next to nothing. The hydrofoil is super thin and joined to all keels of the yacht giving the shape added lateral resistance while not producing skin friction. And its wide platform provides excellent leverage to carry an oversize rig. Also note how fragile it appears, don't be fooled! carbon fibre and honeycomb kevlar is extremely strong for it weight. Gliding above the sea at 25.7 metres per second can cover 2220 km's/day, making a trip to Tahiti pleasure all the way!
More news and videos about Hydroptere and other fast sailboats:
- Video - l'Hydroptere Fastest Sailing Yacht in the World
- Holy l'Hydroptere! Sailing Over 60 knots then Turtled
- Extreme Sailing - The Speed Barrier is Broken
- Sailing Photo of the Week - l’Hydroptère Flying all Hulls
- World's Largest Racing Trimaran Sailing in France - Banque Populaire V
- New Racing Trimarans - The Big and the Beautiful
- SailRocket - The Fastest Sailboat in the World
- The World's Fastest Sailboats - Sailing for Speed Freaks!
- Sailing Video of the Week - Vestas SailRocket Crash!
- Sailing Records (all articles about sailing records)
Saving in Microsoft Word
Word processing programe
Steps on how to open Microsoft works word processor/save:
1. Click on "Start"
2. Click "All programs"
3. Open "Microsoft works word processor"
To save work:
1. Once finished with your work click on "file
2. Select "save as"
3. "Save in" where you would like to save your file.
4. Enter file name.
5. Then click on "save"
In edit HTML you can select colour and type "black" or "white" to change the text colour.
Steps on how to open Microsoft works word processor/save:
1. Click on "Start"
2. Click "All programs"
3. Open "Microsoft works word processor"
To save work:
1. Once finished with your work click on "file
2. Select "save as"
3. "Save in" where you would like to save your file.
4. Enter file name.
5. Then click on "save"
In edit HTML you can select colour and type "black" or "white" to change the text colour.
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