GLASSING THE HULL

Good glassing technique ensures a F.G. job is done well as I'll explain...
Chris L. explained clearly the importance of working an 80% stroke with the roller from the centre of the boat outwards towards the edges. The other 20% of area will be the perimeter or edges to be glassed requiring a little more care in wetting with resin. In the picture below we can see how at first and 80% stroke was used then haphazardly more of a 120% stroke. Some people need to be reminded what working 80% means so we don't pick up bad habits.

Chris pointing out a holiday where resin missed.
We had turns rolling on the resin to get a feel for it, leaving 300mm at the bow where it required filling and fairing. The tip of the bow needed to be cat off and rounded then this area could also be glassed.

Here is an example of the hull being glassed with EDB400 fibre-glass cloth, working from the centre outwards. The centre-case was sealed with cardboard and vactape so resin didn't creep in. The F.G. was cut out once cured. This F.G.process did not require post curing. The F.G. was cut 40mm proud of the deckline and wet on underneath by brush lying on our back. This is also where the bag was sealed to, it was a job well done I'm glad to say.

Please see this video Chris Owen took, it shows well the process involved. http://youtu.be/k6uffxJUQx4

CHAIN PLATE

The chain plate was cut from the same piece as that for the rudder mount. The rebate cut with router and excess foam trimmed away by chisel from the F.G. behind. 

I noticed when Chris was fastening these two pieces of wood to the foam that a better way of applying pressure would be to screw into a piece fo wood behind the foam to get good pressure on the chain plate.